Copyright: Rain Enterprises/Main Street Magazine
2009
Featuring Chef Mark Picone
Tilly Rivers
Chef Mark Picone has celebrated his heritage by honing his culinary skills in Europe, and has been appointed to the "Order of Professional Italian Restaurateurs.”
Chef Picone gained his degree in hotel and food administration from the University of Guelph. While in France, he worked at such restaurants as Trianon Palace (in Versailles), Perraudin (in Biarritz), and Chez Camille (in Burgundy) and Italy, at Antica Dolceria Bonajuta (in Modica), Ristorante Tivoli (in Cortina), and Ristorante Arnolfo (in Colle di Val d’Elsa).
Now calling the Niagara region home, Chef Mark Picone, opened a Culinary Studio to groups of 10-16 guests (by appointment only) and treats them to a custom meal. What follows is the interview with one of Canada’s top chefs “Mark Picone.”
In layman’s terms what is a “Culinary Studio?
“More than a canvas, the studio concept is built around a single table dinning interactive learning experience. It is unique for a number of reasons (here in Niagara ) but not a new concept. Chefs across Europe, especially in Italy and France have been doing this for generations. If you think about what cooking and eating is all about you really have to understand the intrinsic value of our culture. Preserving our food ways through tradition has allowed me to do what I love doing and that is cooking for guests who appreciate quality, fresh and local. I could use many current buzz words that seems all too trendy but understand that we Italians have and an unending desire to share, to feed and to love life.”
If there was one thing that you would like your guests to absorb after experiencing a culinary journey with you, what would that be?
“Guests have often commented on the surroundings of nature and beauty – you’re right in the middle of a small vineyard farm, a spectacular view, European handcrafted furniture, the sounds and scenery of country living and yes, the chef is only 2 meters from you preparing what you will be enjoying. Although `typical’ in nature because we as chefs have an inherent responsibility to serve healthy, safe and great tasting food, my approach based on my training in Europe is to preserve and promote what we enjoy best – REAL food.”
Is “Mark Picone” Riesling and Cabernet Franc- an exclusive wine for guests of the “Mark Picone Culinary Studio,” or is it available for public purchase?
Interesting question as although I would like to be making and selling wine from my grapes, legal parameters forbid this currently. I am very proud to say that the Riesling grapes are sold to Charles Baker (www.charlesbaker.ca) where he makes an incredible wine with an enormous profile of the terroir – where the grapes come from. I would highly recommend purchasing some as it is only available on line or at selected restaurants. There is very limited production.
The Cabernet Franc on the other hand is sold to Len Crispino (www.crispinowines.com). He uses these grapes to make his flagship wine `Cabernet Franc’ using the Crispino Reduction Process ie in the style of Amarone (fruit is air dried ie raisining period).
On a very positive note, it is rather spectacular to comment that when you are enjoying a bottle of CB Riesling 2006 here at the studio that I can inform you the grapes come from this vineyard, right out there. With out a doubt, you clearly have a far better appreciation of the `experience’.”
What is your favorite item in your ‘secret’ garden and why?
“The real thrill of this farm is really about me being a steward of the land, a provider of good food and a promoter of culture. When you look around the surroundings and see examples of history, commitment, passion and desire, how can you not feel energized, fulfilled and rejuvenated? Food is much more than sustenance and much more about the soul!
I am equally thrilled to comment on Jannine Lavoie (www.freshniagara.com) and Jenn Wilhelm (www.winefinesse.com) who have exemplified young adults with a purpose of entrepreneurial spirit to also provide a service that is commensurate with what makes the studio that much more unique!”
How would you define a “culinary explorer?”
“My guests are people who enjoy good food, great wine and friendship. Food is a symbol, a metaphor of sorts for a tradition that is about sitting around the table talking, sharing wisdom, of staying together, of living and loving. Could I say a gatekeeper of civility?”
You can indeed Chef. A phrase I think that will be coined for many years to come!
The standards for the “Order of Professional Italian Restaurateurs” are very rigid- so much so that there are only 100 members of the order worldwide-only three other chefs have received nomination in Canada for this award. Could you tell the readers the process regarding the Order and what it meant to you to be appointed?
“Professional organizations like ORPI have the ability to bring a certain level of credibility to the art of cooking not unlike having your CCC (Certified Chef de Cuisine) or your Red Seal trade license. Since returning to Canada in 1996, I have consistently promoted my Italian heritage through the craft of cooking. ORPI has monitored this and deemed worthy of such. I recognize that and carry this responsibility proudly.”
The Picone family is no stranger to culinary ardor- your family began a food boutique in Dundas Ontario in 1915. Was it always your desire to be a chef?
“Ah, the Picone history and ensuing generations of food purveyors! I should begin by saying that credit goes to my grandparents who had the fortitude and tenacity to cross the ocean, see great opportunity and seize the potential of providing great service, great food and great spirit in the world of food. Does it sound familiar today? My mother’s parents were land owners with dairy cows and likes. My grandfather was an emissary to many Italians who for whatever reason needed counsel or direction once residing in the Dundas/Hamilton area. My father’s parents opened up the small food boutique in the heart of Dundas and purchased milk from Mr. A. Morelli. And the story goes from there…………
As children of the Picone family, (I am no. 5 of 8) we all worked along side mom and dad in the shop. It is here were we would have learned the value of good food, good service and business acumen. My father was kind and reasonable in his demands of excellence. We had to exemplify the hallmarks of responsibility and accountability in all facets of our life – scholastically, music (we all had to play a musical instrument), working, sports and friendship.
Like most large families, some of us are fiercely competitive and I, as a result wanted to pursue higher academic success. From an early age, I was going to be architect or maybe even an RCMP but it was eventually an MD. I believe there is a pattern here and how circuitous. I’m dressed in whites most days and administering a more holistic approach to health – good food!
The profession of chef is no easy task but then I don’t believe any avocation is perceived as work. It takes much more than some would assume or realize. And it is so much more than simply cooking. Today it is about environmental awareness, financial and human management, the art of negotiating (I don’t mean relying on the F*** bomb because we can), unparalleled discipline and somewhere in there, the art of cooking.”
What made you decide to open your own home to groups of 10-16 guests (by appointment only) and treats them to a custom meal vs opening a studio in town?
“It was always a dream of mine to open my own business – the small, intimate and highly regarded establishment that garnishes a level of notoriety of quality and service. Think about it: one table; one serving assistant and one chef. My training abroad taught me the art of simplicity unsophisticated but with down to earth comforts. And this would be on many levels besides the dishes the chef prepares. Niagara is an eco/tour system not unlike wine and food regions of Italy, France , Germany or USA. To genuinely `serve’ guests in our setting here at the studio brings a certain level of `experience’ that is genuine and real. And what more could you ask for than a vineyard setting here in Niagara?”
Your studio is unique as you let the guests, if they so choose, get involved in the preparation of the meal, gathering of the herbs from the garden, and teach a few tricks-of- the-trade. Why did you decide to offer the educational aspects of food preparation to your studio?
“I strongly believe in academic excellence and as a teacher at heart (because that is what we do as chefs – teach apprentices!) to have guests express an inherit desire to assist you is really a great compliment. We’re not `gods’ of a higher order where we can’t be approached or addressed. It is really fulfilling to have guests work along side you: tell them, teach them, show them is a simple model for success.
At the end of the day, it really is about happiness. We work hard and create a certain mystic of who and what we are. We achieve a certain level of competency and it takes a lifetime to achieve this. Much is given, more has to be shared!”
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